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49 DC Case - Brake Cross Section

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49 DC Case - Brake Cross Section - Here is a cross section of a 40s vintage DC Case brake. Several things are noteworthy for adjusting endplay in the shaft 1. Looking at the differential in the middle, there is no thrust bearing between the big drive gear and the two spider gear on the shaft. Thus, a high preload should be avoided. Shoot for no preload and no endplay. 2. Each side has a shim pack. I would adjust on the side with the thickest shim pack if there is an obvious difference in thickness. However, both the big gear and the chain drives are tolerant of some side to side misalignment so no need for the two shim packs to be exactly the same thickness. 3. To do the adjustment, I completely remove one shim pack and first assemble the bearing support without the shim pack. Uniformly snug up the bolts to about 5 to 10 percent tight. Using a feeler gage, check the gap where shims belong at about 3 or 4 places around. Tweak the bolts until the gap is even all around. If there is no gap, shims will also have to be taken out of the other side. 4. At the same time the bolts are being snugged up and also to do the job right, both bearings on the shaft should be rotated a little. This allows all rollers within the two tapered roller bearing to move into their running position which is against the flange on the inner race of the bearing. Unfortunately, both rear tires need to be off the ground to do this because turning each tire rotates only one of the tapered roller bearings While turning a tire with the bolts snugged, one can put their ear to the roller bearing and listen for any roughness within the bearing. 5. Install a shim pack that is the thickness of the gap.


Here is a cross section of a 40s vintage DC Case brake. Several things are noteworthy for adjusting endplay in the shaft 1. Looking at the differential in the middle, there is no thrust bearing between the big drive gear and the two spider gear on the shaft. Thus, a high preload should be avoided. Shoot for no preload and no endplay. 2. Each side has a shim pack. I would adjust on the side with the thickest shim pack if there is an obvious difference in thickness. However, both the big gear and the chain drives are tolerant of some side to side misalignment so no need for the two shim packs to be exactly the same thickness. 3. To do the adjustment, I completely remove one shim pack and first assemble the bearing support without the shim pack. Uniformly snug up the bolts to about 5 to 10 percent tight. Using a feeler gage, check the gap where shims belong at about 3 or 4 places around. Tweak the bolts until the gap is even all around. If there is no gap, shims will also have to be taken out of the other side. 4. At the same time the bolts are being snugged up and also to do the job right, both bearings on the shaft should be rotated a little. This allows all rollers within the two tapered roller bearing to move into their running position which is against the flange on the inner race of the bearing. Unfortunately, both rear tires need to be off the ground to do this because turning each tire rotates only one of the tapered roller bearings While turning a tire with the bolts snugged, one can put their ear to the roller bearing and listen for any roughness within the bearing. 5. Install a shim pack that is the thickness of the gap.

Submitted By: Ron Sa from IL

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